Category Archives: Napa Valley

Clos Pegase

Clos Pegase

Clos Pegase

1060 Dunaweal Ln, Calistoga, CA 94515

Website: http://clospegase.com/

Clos Pegase is an interesting stop for anyone who is into art. The winery is located in Calistoga just up the road from Sterling Vineyards. It is difficult to miss the pink sign and architecture of the winery as you approach.

Fountain outside of Clos Pegase

Fountain outside of Clos Pegase

The original owners, Jan Shrem and his wife Mitsuko, built the winery as a celebration of art and wine. They meshed modern and ancient architecture with winemaking. The name “Pegase” represents the winged-horse Pegasus from Greek mythology. Jan Shrem who made his fortune in the Japanese publishing industry may not seem like the most likely originator of a winery in Napa Valley. While Jan was in Japan running his publishing business, he met his future wife Mitsuko who introduced him to the joy of wine. Wine soon became a passion for Jan and he decided to devote his life to winemaking in California. With the help of famed winemaker André Tchelistcheff, the Shrems created a wine estate where they could also show off their art collection.

Thumb sculpture at Clos Pegase

Thumb sculpture at Clos Pegase

There is an interesting story behind the design of the winery.  When the Shrems set out to build a winery they wanted to create a world-class destination that would express wine as an art form.  In association with the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, they hosted an architectural design competition in 1984 to determine who would design the facility.  The winning designer was Michael Graves.  I have been to several wineries in Napa that have sections of the winery dedicated to art – The Hess Collection, Mumm Napa, and Turnbull.  In comparison, Clos Pegase was truly unique.  There was artwork strewn throughout the property, some of it seemed very random, and there was a mix of ancient and modern art.  One of the most popular art sculptures was a large bronze thumb that sat in the middle of the vineyards. Outside of the entrance to the winery were several modern sculptures.  Some non-art aficionados like myself might call them bizarre.

The tasting room here is open to the public, but I think it’s worth splurging a little and making a reservation for the guided cave tour offered a few times a day.  When I went on the tour it included a walk through the property where the guide explained the art and architecture on the property.  We then walked through the caves and finished up with a tasting.  There were more than a hundred pieces of art to see throughout the property, both inside the Visitor’s Center and outside. There were also artists in the Visitor’s Center creating their own paintings. Within the caves, there is a theatre where the cave tour ends with a seated tasting of current and library wines paired with cheese and charcuterie.

Jan Shrem, at the age of 83, sold the winery to Vintage Wine Estates who own other properties in Napa, such as Girard and Cosentino, as well as some other wineries in Sonoma.  When the sale occurred in August 2013 he donated much of the artwork to UC Davis.  Some of the artwork has stayed.  The artwork is what stands out vividly in my mind any time I hear or read about Clos Pegase and made the winery truly different from its neighbors.  I have not returned since the sale to see what remains.

Quintessa

Entrance to Quintessa

Entrance to Quintessa

1601 Silverado Trail S, St Helena, CA 94574

Website: https://www.quintessa.com/

I first heard about Quintessa while on another winery tour.  My husband who is very social was having a conversation with three other people on the tour and the conversation turned to “what is your favorite winery?”  They raved about Quintessa.  I went back home and did some research online before setting up a visit.  This winery is only open to visitors by prior reservation.  As I was looking up information on Quintessa I learned that there’s an interesting history to the property.

A view of Rutherford from Quintessa vineyards

A view of Rutherford from Quintessa vineyards

The entire Quintessa property is 280 acres located in the famed Rutherford viticultural area.  The estate encompasses a valley, a lake, a river, five hills, and five microclimates.  The property was originally purchased in the 1940s by a man named George Markidian, a high profile restaurateur.  He declared that the destiny of the property was to become a premium wine estate, but unfortunately he died in the 1980s before he saw it come to fruition.  After Markidian passed away there were a number of prestigious vintners who tried purchasing the property from his family, but none of them were successful until 1990 when Valeria Huneeus recognized the same potential for the estate as George and shared her vision with the family.  The winery is now owned by Agustin Huneeus and his wife Valeria.  As indicated on their website, they named the winery Quintessa as a representation “of the five dramatic hills and five distinct microclimates included in the property’s diverse geography unique in the Napa Valley and the belief they held that this property was destined to be the quintessential wine estate”.

Agustin Huneeus originates from Chile where he used to be the CEO of Concho y Toro.  He helped Concho y Toro to become Chile’s largest winery.  Agustin left his home country in 1971 due to political strife.  Once in the United States he became responsible for wineries in 7 countries as head of Seagram’s worldwide operations.  He then went on to found Noble Vineyards in1977, which later acquired Concannon in Livermore Valley, CA.  Agustin next became partner and acting president of Franciscan Estate in 1985 and built it into a successful group of premium wine estates.  He sold his share in 1999 and started Quintessa with his wife Valeria.

Quintessa makes one red Meritage wine.  It’s a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère.   Like a classic Bordeaux, these wines can age at least 15-20 years.  The winery also has a limited production Sauvignon Blanc called Illumination.

The lobby at Quintessa Winery

The lobby at Quintessa Winery

The only way to get to sample Quintessa wines is to set up a reservation for the winery tour.  It is recommended that reservations are made well in advance.  For $75 per person, the 90 minute tour includes a vertical of three Quintessa vintages.  It is totally worth it in my opinion to try three of their world class wines for less than the cost of a bottle.  It’s a great experience even without the wine.

The winery itself is a sight to see.   The exterior is a large stone structure built into a hill.  At the start of the tour, Marcelo our tour guide took us outside to what looked like a large cement slab where the crush occurs during harvest.  He explained that this is a gravity flow winery and we were actually standing on top of the fermentation cellar.  Once grapes are harvested and sorted they are gravity fed to fermentation tanks, eliminating the need to mechanically handle the grapes via pumping or some other means.

Fermentation area at Quintessa

Fermentation area at Quintessa

After talking about how the grapes are harvested, we explored the fermentation area, lab, and caves.  After getting a tour of the inside of the winery, Marcelo told us to jump into his SUV and drove us up to the top of the hill looking out at spectacular views of Rutherford.  There is a picnic area atop the hill.  Marcelo talked about the estate and different soil types.  We learned how the different cover crops are selected to supplement any lack of nutrients in the soil.  After snapping some gorgeous pictures, we got back into his SUV and drove around the property, by the pond, and back to the tasting room.  To wrap up our visit we were led to a closed off tasting salon to sample the wine.  Marcelo did a great job of making us feel like special guests.  We sampled the excellent wines with some cheeses that were provided and did not feel rushed during any point of our tour.  This was truly one of the best tours I have been on.

The rock wall at Quintessa

The rock wall at Quintessa

Frog’s Leap Winery

Frog's Leap Winery

Frog’s Leap Winery

8815 Conn Creek Rd, Rutherford, CA 94573

Website: http://www.frogsleap.com/

One word immediately comes to mind when I think about Frog’s Leap – “FUN”. The owners of this winery clearly have a sense of humor.  The winery’s motto is “Time’s Fun When You’re Having Flies”.  There is a story behind the name of the winery. The “Frog” part of the name comes from the fact that the winery is founded on a historical property that used to be a commercial frog farm in the late 1800s. The second half of the name is a play on “Stag’s Leap” from when winemaker John Williams borrowed grapes from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in 1981 to make a batch of wine at the “Frog Farm”. Hence, they created the name Frog’s Leap.  The frog theme runs throughout the winery.

The big red barn at Frog's Leap Winery

The big red barn at Frog’s Leap Winery

Frog’s Leap is located off of Conn Creek Road in Rutherford between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. The first thing that visitors see when driving up to the winery is the big Red Barn and vineyards out in front of it. The Red Barn is one of the historic Napa Valley ghost wineries built in 1884 as the Adamson Winery. The Williams family and current owners of Frog’s Leap renovated the barn in 1994 and turned it into a state of the art winemaking facility. The winery is surrounded by 40 acres of estate vineyards.   To the left of the barn is the Vineyard House and welcome center. Between the two buildings on the back side of the barn is a courtyard with seating areas right next to the vineyard where visitors can relax and take everything in.

Everything about this winery is laid back and it offers a little something for everyone, from the casual guests to more serious wine drinkers. When my husband and I visited the place was very popular. At that time, back in 2012, we were able to walk in without reservations.  Now reservations are required for tours and tastings.  I suspect that may be because of their popularity.  There is a small path from the parking lot that leads directly to the Vineyard House. When we walked inside, we were confused by where we needed to go for a wine tasting. Straight ahead of us inside the Vineyard House was a lounge area that looked like someone’s living room with a cozy couch and chandelier overhead. To the left was a private room with big leather chairs. Off to the right was another room that looked like a dining area with a long table set up for seated tastings and glass doors leading outside. Outside on the wrap-around porch are additional tables where people can do a tasting looking out on the vineyards. We missed the small room immediately to the right of the entrance where we were supposed to select our tasting option.

Frog's Leap outdoor seating area near the vineyards

Frog’s Leap outdoor seating area near the vineyards

Since the place was very busy and we didn’t immediately see a staff member, my husband and I roamed around trying to figure out where to go. We headed outside to the courtyard and saw some people sitting on the top floor of the barn drinking wine. We headed in that direction next, walking through the barn past fermentation tanks, up the stairs to the second floor. There were chairs set up at both ends with an open window looking out at the vineyards on both sides. The views from atop the barn are beautiful! It was February and a little chilly with the wide open windows but there were small heaters set up to keep guests comfortable. In the middle was a small tasting bar. The girl behind the bar informed us that we needed to go back to the Vineyard House and pay for a tasting to get a glass before we could try anything. Then we trekked back to the entrance, paid for our tasting, and went back to the barn. It was a bit frustrating and we learned a lesson should we return again.

As we were roaming around the property, we noticed that there were so many places to sit and relax.   There are 3 different tasting options – an indoor seated tasting in the Vineyard House, a Garden tasting in one of the various areas around the property or in the Big Red Barn, or a tour and tasting. If the weather is nice, I would recommend heading outside and grabbing a seat looking out on the vineyards on either side of the property. Despite the very casual atmosphere, the winery takes their wines seriously, and I enjoyed them.  It’s a winery I would recommend visiting

View of the Stags Leap district from Frog's Leap Winery

View of the Stags Leap district from Frog’s Leap Winery

.