Author Archives: Cathy Gartley

St. Francis

St. Francis Winery

St. Francis Winery

100 Pythian Rd. at Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA

Website: http://www.stfranciswinery.com/

There are times when I visit a winery that I immediately feel a connection to the place. There may not be one particular aspect of the winery that stands out above the rest, but the overall ambiance draws me in. St. Francis Winery is one of those places. The winery and vineyards are located in the southern end of Sonoma Valley on Highway 12 in the same vicinity as Kenwood, Chateau St. Jean, and Ledson. The backdrop of the winery provides a gorgeous view of Hood Mountain. From the parking lot, a stone walkway leads to the mission style Visitor Center. The most distinguishing feature is the bell tower located above the entryway. The winery has been around since 1979, but the winery facility was renovated in 1999 and the Visitor Center opened its doors in 2001. Although the name may suggest some kind of religious affiliation, owner Joe Martin was a San Francisco businessman prior to purchasing the former Behler Ranch Vineyard. The winery was named in recognition of St. Francis of Assisi, a Franciscan monk whose role was as a protector of the natural world. It is believed that he was the first to bring grape cultivation to America. To the right of the entryway to the Visitor Center is a small courtyard with a statue of St. Francis.

Statue of St. Francis of Assisi

Statue of St. Francis of Assisi

The view from inside the Visitor Center is just as stunning as the view from outside. The tasting room is very spacious with a long, wooden wine bar that faces out toward the vineyard. The side of the room opposite the tasting bar is almost entirely windows that reach from ceiling to floor and provide a panoramic view of the vineyard and mountains behind the winery. There is also a patio outside where visitors can soak in the view. The combination of the windows and white walls inside the tasting room make it look like a wide open space. There are a few tables and displays set up around the room with wine bottles and other accessories for purchase. There’s also a stone fireplace at the far end of the tasting bar. The first time I visited there was a table set up with a fun sensory test that allowed me to check my knowledge of different wine scents.

St. Francis produces a wide selection of wines. The tasting menu is long and guests are permitted to choose several wines to sample. I thought the staff was very friendly and willing to make suggestions on what to try based on my personal preferences. I have been to the winery twice and had the same level of customer service each time I visited. Between the two visits, I tried quite a few different wines and thought they were all good quality. The wines that really stood out to me were the old vine Zinfandels, both Wild Oak and Behler Sonoma County Merlots, and Rockpile Red. There were quite a few others that I enjoyed as well. For visitors who want a more personalized experience, St. Francis offers daily food and wine pairings. I signed up for the mailing list and receive announcements about the many events at the winery throughout the year, as well as sales on wine. I certainly would recommend this winery to anyone visiting this part of Sonoma Valley.

Charles Krug Winery

Charles Krug is the oldest operating winery in Napa Valley

Charles Krug is the oldest operating winery in Napa Valley

2800 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574

Website: https://www.charleskrug.com/

Charles Krug Winery is a historic landmark in Napa Valley. Charles Krug, a Prussian immigrant, established the winery in 1861. It was the first winery in Napa Valley to open its doors to the public in 1882. Charles Krug was a major influencer for Napa Valley’s wine region during his era. After he passed away in 1892, a man named James Moffett purchased the winery and held onto it through Prohibition. Then in 1943, James Moffett sold the winery to Italian immigrants Cesare and Rosa Mondavi. Cesare wanted the winery to be a family business and named his older son Robert as General Manager and put his younger Peter in charge of wine production.

Unfortunately there was a riff between Robert and Peter in the 1960s that split the family apart and Robert left to start his own winery in Oakville. Peter stayed on to run the winery and continued operations after both of his parents passed away. Peter, staying true to his father’s vision of maintaining a family run winery, has given his two sons Marc and Peter Jr. major roles in guiding the operation of the winery for the next generation. Peter Sr. who is celebrating his 100th birthday in 2014 is still actively involved in the winery.

The historic Carriage House at Charles Krug winery.

The historic Carriage House at Charles Krug winery.

There are several historic landmarks still on the property, including the house where Cesare and Rosa resided, now the home of Peter Sr.; the Redwood Cellar that was built in 1872; and the Carriage House that Krug built for his wife Carolina in 1881. The Carriage House went through a large renovation in 2013 and houses the new tasting room. I stopped in to visit the new tasting room soon after it opened. It is much nicer than the old tasting room which felt cramped and ordinary. The new tasting room has a nice balance of elegance and rusticity. It is huge in comparison to the former tasting room. Guests enter through the large wooden doors of the Carriage House. The walls are made of cement, the floor is covered in a light gray tile, and wood beams frame the rest of the room and ceiling. On the far left side of the room is the tasting bar that spans the width of the room. It is made of steel and a large slab of wood with lighting underneath. Behind the bar is a wooden wine rack that covers the entire wall. There are tables and chairs throughout the center of the room with flower pots and wine bottle centerpieces. The space reminded me of being in an Italian restaurant.

Charles Krug Tasting Room

Charles Krug Tasting Room

The wall opposite the entrance has some glassed-in sections that look down into the wine cellar. To the far right of the room is the section where the deli will reside (The deli was not yet complete when I visited. We were told it would be finished in the summer of 2014). To the left of the tasting bar is a small hallway that leads to a glass elevator and a private tasting room. Within the private room is some memorabilia such old wine bottles and labels and a bronze bust of Peter Mondavi Sr. The wine club manager who showed us around informed us that the second floor would be reserved for wine club members who want to relax and have a more one-on-one experience when they visit.

Charles Krug Winery focuses on Bordeaux style wines. They also make Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and a Zinfandel Port that is delicious with dark chocolate.All of their wines are high quality. The winery also hosts Tastings on the Lawn each fall on the Great Lawn adjacent to the Carriage House with live music, food from local chefs, meet-and-greets with the Mondavi family, lots of wine and other fun activities.

My husband and I got to meet Peter Mondavi, Sr. at a Tastings on the Lawn event in 2010.  He was 95 years old.

My husband and I got to meet Peter Mondavi, Sr. at a Tastings on the Lawn event in 2010. He was 95 years old.

Benziger estate vineyards

Benziger Family Winery

Benziger estate vineyards

Benziger estate vineyards

1883 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen, CA

Website: http://www.benziger.com/

Benziger Family Winery is without a doubt my personal favorite of all wineries I have visited to date. There isn’t anything grandiose about this winery. They don’t have a castle or exquisitely manicured gardens, and they aren’t widely distributed (at least not in New Hampshire). What I like most about this winery is that it is family operated; it is simple but has outstanding wines; and its focus is all about giving as much back to the land as we take from it. With that being said, I make it a point to stop into the winery every time I am in Napa or Sonoma Valley.

The Benzigers have been making wine on Sonoma Mountain since the 1980s. It was Mike Benziger who discovered the property and recognized its potential after going off on his own to study wine in Europe and California. At the time, the Benziger family was living in White Plains, New York. It took some persuasion from Mike to convince the doctor who owned the Sonoma property to sell it, and to convince his father Bruno to fund the purchase. The entire Benziger family, which consisted of Bruno and Helen with their 5 sons and 2 daughters (plus their significant others and children), moved onto the estate and camped inside the leaky, century-old farm house while they went to work immediately on building a winery. The winery was completed in 1981 in time for the crush, and their first two wines, a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, were released in 1982. They spent the rest of the decade planting their estate vineyards.

Benziger was the first vineyard in Napa and Sonoma to receive Demeter Biodynamic certification. The goal of biodynamics is to incorporate nature into the winemaking process and produce wines that exhibit the characteristics of the land. I think that the Benzigers’ commitment to producing biodynamic wines is evident in the taste and quality of their wines. The winery offers two different tours that bring visitors out into the vineyards and explain the biodynamic farming process. I went on the Biodynamic Vineyard Tram Tour the first time I visited wine country, and this is what gave me a true appreciation for wine. To begin the tour, we hopped onto a tram and rode up into the vineyard making the first stop at the crest of a hill looking out over the surrounding vineyards and winery.

The view from the tram tour at Benziger

The view from the tram tour at Benziger

Our guide spent some time talking about biodynamics before we got back on the tram and rode through the vineyards to the fermentation facility and crush pad. Here we learned about the crushing and fermentation process and then headed into the caves. After a walk through the cave and a little more education about the barrels, we were led to the tasting room to sample some wines.

The insectarium at Benziger

The insectarium at Benziger

The second tour that I would recommend to everyone is the Benziger Partners Estate Vineyard Tour. It costs more than the tram tour, but it is an experience that people will remember forever. It can be a very romantic experience as well for couples. Like the Biodynamic Vineyard Tram Tour, this tour also starts with a tram ride through the vineyard, but it gets into much more detail about biodynamics. Along the tour, we rode in between rows of vines and could reach out to taste the grapes.  We made several stops along the way where our tour guide talked about the animals on the property and water sources and how they all play a part in biodynamic farming. About half way through the tour, we stopped at the insectarium and were served a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to sip as we marveled at all of the fruits, vegetables, and other plants that were grown there.

Inside Benziger's wine cave

Inside Benziger’s wine cave

Our next stop on the tour was the wine cave. We were taken to a candlelit room set up in one section of the cave and sat down to sample 4 different wines while the tour guide provided education about the vineyards where the grapes were grown and how the flavor of the wine is characteristic of the vineyard. On our way out of the cave, we stopped to sample a wine from the barrel. As if we didn’t have enough wine already, the tour ended in a private tasting room off of the main tasting room with a sample of a couple more wines. The experience and the number of wines sampled were well worth the price.

I will continue to recommend this winery to anyone in Napa or Sonoma Valley. To me, this winery represents what wine country should be all about.

Update as of 8/14/15: I just returned from my latest trip to Sonoma specifically to attend the wine club members’ annual Block Party event.  The event includes meet-and-greets with the family, the opportunity to claim a vine in one of the vineyard blocks, and a 4 course meal paired with wine.  It was the first time I was able to attend and I would love to return because my husband and I had a lovely time.  However, I was dismayed to learn that both Benziger and Imagery wineries were recently sold to The Wine Group, a big conglomerate.  The news shocked me and I immediately went online to get more information.  Based on the articles I read, Mike has been recovering from some health issues.  The Wine Group is looking for the opportunity to get into the high-end wine business and has vowed to maintain the sustainable farming practices.  Some of the family will continue to be involved in the operations and winemaking.  I do hope that is true.  I’d hate to see the best qualities of this winery go away because it has been taken over by a conglomerate.  Only time will tell…