Author Archives: Cathy Gartley

Grgich Hills Estate

Grgich Hills Estate

Grgich Hills Estate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1829 St. Helena Hwy. Rutherford, CA 94573

Website: http://www.grgich.com/

Grgich Hills Estate is a small family winery founded by Miljenko (Mike) Grgich and Austin Hills from the Hills Bros. Coffee family.  Today the winery is run by Mike Grgich, his daughter Violet, and his nephew Ivo Jeramaz.  I am intrigued by the story of Mike Grgich and his incredible drive to own a successful winery. He was born in Croatia in 1923 as the youngest of 11 children. His family did not have much money and sustained their own farm to produce food, milk, and cheese to feed the family. They also produced wine, keeping half for themselves and selling the other half to villagers. According to George Taber’s “Judgment of Paris”, Mike’s mother gave him a mixture of water and wine to drink as soon as he stopped nursing and he was crushing grapes with his feet at age 3.*

Mike later went on to study viticulture and enology at the University of Zagreb and then took a fellowship in West Germany to leave the strife of Communist controlled Yugoslavia. His ultimate goal was to immigrate to the United States. Mike worked very hard to make a living and never gave up on his dream. Once he arrived in St. Helena for the first time, he worked for many noteworthy wineries and winemakers, including Lee Stewart of Souverain Cellars, André Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyards, and Robert Mondavi. One of the most momentous times of his career occurred when he became a limited partner at Chateau Montelena where he produced the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the 1976 blind tasting in Paris, proving to the world that California was capable of making premium wines. Soon after the Paris tasting, Mike left Chateau Montelena to start his own winery with partner Austin Hills and broke ground for the Grgich Hills winery in Rutherford on July 4, 1977. Mike’s dream had finally come true!  Mike stuck to his roots and established another winery in Croatia in 1996.  He was inducted into the Vintner’s Hall of Fame in 2008 for his lifetime achievements.

Grgich Hills Estate Winery

Grgich Hills Estate Winery

Mike’s passion for wine comes through at the Grgich Hills Estate winery. The winery produces high quality wines that are all Biodynamically certified. Biodynamic farming is the philosophy that the vineyard is a living organism, and that creating a balance with nature and following earth’s natural cycles will produce better grapes.   Many wineries are now turning to this method of farming. When my husband and I visited the winery, Mike was walking around the tasting room and took the time to take a picture with us. The staff member who was conducting our tasting informed us that Mike is often found roaming around the winery and greeting visitors. He’s still going strong at over 90 years old. We thoroughly enjoyed our tasting experience, not only because we met a celebrity winemaker, but because the tasting room staff was very friendly and willing to take the time to educate us about the winery and their wines.

Grape stomping at Grgich

Grape stomping at Grgich

The Napa Valley wine train offers a package with a stop at Grgich Hills.  The winery is open to the public daily and tasting hours start earlier than many of the other wineries on highway 29.  If you want something more than the typical wine tasting, they offer a variety of tours and tastings on their website.  If you visit in the fall, you can pay $10 more than the usual tasting fee to sample a few wines, stomp grapes like they did in the TV show I Love Lucy, and get a t-shirt with your grape-stained footprints.

*Reference from Taber, George M. Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting that revolutionized Wine. NY: Scribner, 2005.
Meeting Mike Grgich

Meeting Mike Grgich

 

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery

Villa Fiore at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma

Villa Fiore at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma

 

8761 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, CA 95448

Website: http://www.ferrari-carano.com/

My impression of this winery is that it is more like a Napa Valley winery than the surrounding Sonoma wineries. It has a magnificence that almost feels out of place next to the smaller, rustic wineries. It is well worth the trek to the northern part of Dry Creek Valley to see this winery that is modeled after an Italian villa. Ferrari-Carano has a tasting room located in Healdsburg Plaza that may be more convenient to get to, but I would definitely recommend making the drive north to see the beauty of the winery. I have been here a couple of times and would put this high up on my list of places to visit in Sonoma.

As I walked from the parking lot along the stone path, the pink hospitality center called Villa Fiore stood in front of me at the end of the pathway. Out in front of the entrance to Villa Fiore is an immaculately manicured garden with bright yellow roses and red tulips that are dazzling when in bloom.

Ferrari Carano vineyards

Ferrari Carano vineyards

When standing in the garden facing the front entrance, there are vineyards and a fountain off to the left and a Japanese garden to the right. The vineyard is modeled after vineyards in Italy with rows of vines growing on hills. I would have guessed that the original owners were natives of Italy, but Don and Rhonda Carano were actually from Reno Nevada. Don Carano wanted to expand beyond the hotel and restaurant industry and started the winery in 1981.  In June 2020, Foley Family Wines purchased the winery from the Caranos.

Inside the entrance of Villa Fiore is a good size gift shop and wine tasting bar. The tasting bar provides samples of Ferrari-Carano’s Classic and Villa Fiore wines that include a Pinot Grigio, Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are stairs off the gift shop that lead to a lower level that includes a view into the wine cellar; the Enoteca Reserve Tasting Bar; and a large screen TV that repeatedly plays a video about the winery. Anyone can stop in to the Enoteca (which means “wine library” in Italian) to try the Limited Release wines, including the Eldorado Gold and Eldorado Noir dessert wines. Unfortunately the wine cellar is only open to visitors who sign up for a special tour.

Ferrari-Carano also offers several different types of private tastings for a special tasting experience. My husband and I signed up for Sentiments private tasting. It was an experience that I will never forget. The tasting focuses on being able to identify aromas in wine. We started with a tour around the grounds and a brief history of the winery. We were then led downstairs into a private tasting room off the Enoteca lounge that had a fireplace, some lounge chairs, and a table set up with wine glasses and a variety of scents like vanilla bean, pear, chocolate, apple, and several others. Our guide, who was the Director of Hospitality, gave us some pointers on how to build a “scent memory” and had us sniff the different scents. Then he poured 5 or 6 different wines for us and had us try to detect the aromas on our own. The tasting cost us $35 each and it was well worth it.

Ferrari-Carano Japanese garden

Ferrari-Carano Japanese garden

On our way out of the winery we stopped at the Japanese garden. Visitors are permitted to take a self-guided tour of the garden. Once I walked through the gate into the garden, I felt like I was taken to a totally different place that was so peaceful and beautiful. Trying to describe it in words wouldn’t do it enough justice. It was a wonderful ending to our visit.

Schramsberg

The Victorian house on the Schramsberg property with surrounding landscaping.

The Victorian house on the Schramsberg property with surrounding landscaping.

1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, CA 94515

Website: http://www.schramsberg.com/

Out of all of the wineries I have visited in Napa Valley, if I were to make a recommendation of one place to visit that is most symbolic of the true history of this wine region it would absolutely be Schramsberg. When reading about this winery and visiting the historical landmark, I got a feeling of being taken back in time to the 1800s when Napa was becoming a booming wine industry.  Not only does this winery exemplify the true history of Napa Valley, today it is recognized as a United States premium sparkling wine producer. Their claim to fame is that President Nixon served their Blanc de Blancs at the 1972 “Toast to Peace” with China’s Premier Zhou Enlai. Schramsberg’s sparkling wines have been served at the White House by every U.S. Presidential administration since then.

Schramsberg was founded by German immigrant Jacob Schram in 1862. Schram came from a winemaking family but spent the early part of his career as a barber. He immigrated to the United States at the age of 16. Yet his homeland and roots were always in his thoughts. After purchasing the property on Diamond Mountain to create a winery, Schram hired Chinese laborers to build an underground cellar that would allow him to store his wines at cooler temperatures. These were some of the first wine caves dug in Napa Valley used for wine storage. He also built a stately Victorian home for himself and his wife that still remains on the property today. Robert Louis Stevenson visited Schramsberg in 1880 and dedicated a chapter in his book Silverado Squatters to the winery. Schram’s wines won awards both domestically and internationally. After Schram died in 1905 his son Herman tried to carry on the winery, but a vine destroying pest called phylloxera and the onset of Prohibition ended production at the winery. The winery then changed owners several times. In 1957, the winery was declared a historical landmark by the state of California.

Jack and his wife Jamie Davies started a new era of winemaking when they purchased the winery in 1965 with a vision to create world class sparkling wine. According to the Schramsberg website, the Davies sought to create “America’s most prestigious, select and admired sparkling wine; chosen for special guests, special gifts, pampering one’s self and expressing one’s taste in unique products.” Based on the number of awards they have won over the years and the fact that every Presidential administration since Nixon has served their sparkling wines at the White House, I would say that the Davies have been successful in their mission. The Davies restored the original Victorian home, winery, and caves. Jack Davies passed away in 1998 and his wife carried on the winery with the support of her family and staff until her death 10 years later. Their youngest son Hugh Davies now carries on his parents’ legacy.

The tour at Schramsberg lives up to its reputation. An important thing to note is that the winery is not open for public tastings. Anyone is welcome to visit the property and purchase wine, but the only way to get to sample the wine is to sign up for the tour and tasting. The tour focuses on the history of the winery and takes a walk through the historic caves, followed by a seated tasting of several wines. There are several tours each day and advance reservations are required.

Schramsberg Winery founded in 1862

Schramsberg Winery founded in 1862

I’ll describe my visit from the very beginning as my husband and I pulled off of highway 29 onto Schramsberg road. This is where the beauty of Schramsberg begins. We drove up a narrow road to the winery that was surrounded by trees on both sides. It felt like we were on a camping adventure. It was so pretty to see in February. I imagine it is even more amazing in spring or summer when everything is in full bloom. At the top of the drive we arrived at a parking area. Off to our left were an old grape press, old vines, and Jacob Schram’s Victorian home up on a hill. I was excited to get out of the car and walk around.

Riddler's Night Out

Riddler’s Night Out

Our tour began outside the entrance to the winery in front of a pond with the iconic frog statue called “Riddler’s Night Out”. The tour guide who has worked for the winery for 20 years started by telling us a brief history from when Jacob Schram started the winery to modern times. He talked about the Victorian home that sits on top of the hill that was in front of where we were standing. The home has a huge wrap-around porch and beautiful landscaping out in front down to the pond where we were standing. I can image there have been many gatherings hosted in that home over the last century. After the history lesson, our tour guide led us into the visitor’s center lobby where there are pictures of Jacob Schram and the Davies family throughout the room.

Schramsberg wine cave

Schramsberg wine cave

The next part of the tour led us into the wine caves. The caves today encompass 34,000 feet of space and hold more than 2.5 million bottles. It was amazing to see the rows of wine bottles stacked from ceiling to floor as far back as the eye can see. The caves are dimly lit with lichen (a gray, moss-like substance) hanging from the ceilings. It’s eerie and certainly not a place I’d want to be wondering around on my own. We made a stop somewhere toward the middle of the cave to see a demonstration of how the sparkling wine is riddled by hand using riddling racks. Our final destination on the tour was back to the visitor’s center where we could taste some of the wines.

Our tour group was ushered into a room surrounded by windows with a long table set up in the center. The table was made of old riddling racks with a glass top and there were some flowers and candles in the center of the table to add some ambiance. We were able to sample 5 wines that included Blanc de Blancs, Brut Rosé, Blanc de Noir, Reserve sparkling wine and Nobles Pinot Noir. Our tour guide even handed out chocolate covered strawberries that his wife made to try with the wines. I thought all of the wines were great and would purchase any one of them for a special occasion. Upon my request our tour guide also poured the Crémant Demi-Sec which is a half sweet, half dry sparkling wine as the name implies. I ended up taking two bottles home with me and I left elated about visiting this place. Everything about it was superb!

Wine tasting at Schramsberg

Wine tasting at Schramsberg